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The Dartmouth
April 16, 2024 | Latest Issue
The Dartmouth

Taste Test: a line-up of the best local treats

Organic Unsweetened Applesauce

Vermont Village Cannery applesauce jars were displayed right at the entrance of the CO-OP as part of a two for $5 deal. The CO-OP had a variety of flavors, including cranberry or mango-apple, but I chose the original so I could compare it to DDS's Musselman Applesauce from Pennsylvania. The organic applesauce is creamy and smooth, almost like Gerber baby food -- it doesn't have the grainy texture of the Musselman's. I personally like some pulp and texture, but the Vermont applesauce has a density to it that makes it more substantial and filling. It really does taste like ground up apple, no sugar added. Fortunately or unfortunately (depends on personal preference), "tastes exactly like an apple" means that along with the fruity sweetness, there is also a slight sour tang. Each little tube of applesauce at Food Court costs less than a dollar, but it's hardly organic: it achieves its sweetness and color with the help of high fructose corn syrup and ascorbic acid.

Garfield's Smoked Cheese

A good number of locally made cheeses available at the CO-OP were made from goat's milk, but I wanted something a little less strong. Garfield's smoked cheese was "made just 20 minutes away at a smokehouse in Meriden," according to the CO-OP cheese lady, and the little bite-sized cubes of creamy Greyer make perfect snacks.

To prove its smoked status, there is a darker, cooked-up side on each cube. This cheese is especially good for those who are not particularly crazy about dairy products, because it doesn't have that pungent, milky scent that some people dislike. In fact, it smells and almost tastes like smoked ham. "I feel like I'm eating chunks of meat," my pleased roommate said. I'm not sure what a cheese connoisseur would say about it, but to the common palate, it is salty and flavorful -- perfect for popping when you're hungry in between meals.

Raspberries from MacLennan Farms in Windsor, Vt.

The Vermont raspberries were set up right next to the California-born Driscoll's raspberries at the CO-OP. Both were priced at $4.99, and the Driscoll's breed initially looked more appealing, with a brighter red hue and colorful brand label. The Vermont raspberries were darker and didn't have as firm a shape.

Looks turned out to be deceiving; the Vermont rasberries were much sweeter than the Driscoll's. Driscoll's raspberries were firmer and had a better texture, but the berries they were slightly sour.

Fresh Citrus Marmalade

The marmalade from the Vermont farmer's market was screaming "local," "organic" and "homemade" straight from the package. Produced by Joni and Joe Lloyd at Mustard Seed Farm in Weathersfield, Vt., the jar was covered with a cute floral cloth cap and straw ribbon. Unfortunately, the mechanics of the jar itself were also very homemade, and the tin lid actually fell apart into two pieces when I tried to open it. The ingredients listed were oranges, lemon, grape fruit, sugar and pectin -- basically a potpourri of sour citrus fruits. I tried it with a slice of (non-local) Pepperidge Farm bread, and compared it to store-bought marmalade.

The fresh citrus marmalade was more watery and less sweet, but the big strips of orange and lemon peel made it fun to eat. The CO-OP also carries organic marmalade that comes in a variety of fun flavors like orange-cranberry and peach-lemon. Now if I can only figure out how to put the lid back together...

White Mountains Pure Maple Syrup

I never understood the people who pay extra for the special maple syrup at Lou's. But now I do. The Littleton, N.H.-produced syrup I got from the CO-OP is not your average sweetener. The pancake syrup that you can get at Homeplate is just one-dimensionally sweet, since it isn't real maple syrup: it's made from corn syrup or sugar. The White Mountains Pure Maple Syrup has a real depth of flavor that reminded me coffee or hazelnut. I paid $2.99 for 100ml, and it comes in a cute little jug that's easy to carry around -- in case you want to bring your own syrup to Home Plate for Sunday brunch.

Home Hearth Bakery Chocolate Chip Cookies

It is difficult to say whether chocolate chip cookies would qualify as 'local produce,' but these cookies from Home Hearth Bakery in Norwich definitely tasted great. Sold in packets of eight for $3.99 at the CO-OP alongside a variety of more unconventional flavors, these cookies are just the right size -- about three inches diameter -- and have a slight shortbread-ish softnesss. They stayed hidden in my drawer for three days after I opened the bag, but stayed soft and delicious. For the same calorie count as Pepperidge, I'd choose locally baked.