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The Dartmouth
June 15, 2024 | Latest Issue
The Dartmouth

Shoe go

I have quite the expensive little habit. Considering that I pay for my gas in change, it is one I certainly cannot afford. Take a few weeks ago: while y'all were trashing my 31.5 South Park Street residence, I was enjoying myself in Montreal.

Despite the promises I made to myself to keep frugal, I succumbed to the city's temptations and dropped just under $200, sneaking back over the border (Canadian, albeit) with the Air Max 90 collaboration between Nike and Foot Patrol (a London-based sneaker shop tucked away in SoHo). It can't be helped -- I love sneakers. They combine craftsmanship and excesses that would have made Agamemnon blush (works of art on your feet?!) with a cheeky playfulness (sometimes I think any sneaker enthusiast is secretly searching for the shoes his mother bought him in grade school).

Despite my adoration, however, the sneaker world naturally excludes me. The real sneakerheads are either straight hip-hop bawlers or Cro-mags (foundational '80s hardcore-metal band) fans who intimidate the sh*t out of me. Their kicks match their fitted New Era baseball caps, and their T-shirts cost as much as the gas I can't afford. As an outsider, however, I may be particularly well suited to provide a tour of kickdom (shut up, I'm funny).

Nike is pretty untouchable when it comes to basketball sneakers (even that heinous jam of Nelly's couldn't tarnish the AF1s), and they have really cashed in on the notion of repping a player, team or even artist by what's on your feet. I tend to think it started in '85 when the original Air Jordans were released. Since then have been 21 generations of Air Jordans as well as periodic reissues (in '94 the retroed Jordan I's sold rather poorly, by 2001 kids had come to their senses and they were swept up).

Nike's "True to Your School" series is composed of dunk-hi's (a basketball sneaker that comes just above the ankle) whose colorways -- the color scheme of a sneaker -- are those of various college basketball teams. So, Iowa is black and yellow, Syracuse is orange and white, etc. I myself could not resist the grey and red UNLV edition. Though for aesthetic reasons, not because of any West coast affiliation, despite what the Game might tell you.

By now it's impossible to keep up with all the artistic collaboration Nike has going. For instance Pushead -- the artist behind some Metallica and Misfits cover art -- designed an incredible pair of "low Dunk sb's" (skateboarding sneakers -- yes, Nike has their huge hand in the skateboarding cookie jar too). They are all bruises and pulp -- like someone got beat half to death all over your shoes (and even the shoebox!).

Special edition shoes of this nature are available in very small numbers and sell out almost immediately. When they become "live" (available to the public), sh*t can get hectic. In New York, for instance, the release of the much-hyped "pigeon dunk" (featuring an embroidered pigeon near the heel) required a police presence in response to sneaker muggings outside the shop. Incidentally, I've found a pair of pigeon dunks in my size at www.vintagekicks.com (a great consignment site for sneakers -- often expensive but always legit), so if anyone wants to drop $1,800 (yup) on my behalf let me know. Sneakers of this nature are known as Holy Grails -- you could spend your whole life searching (or saving) for them.

New York is okay, but seriously check Japan. Let's start with the Reebok Ventilator Koyomi or "Calendar Series." Each month a different colorway corresponding to the nature of that month in Japan, is released. The designs are sleek and saturated with color. (If you like them you'll go buck for a pair of Puma Prismatrons -- I believe I've seen a pair around campus, quite a thrill). Indigenous to Japan and barely-under-the-radar is Madfoot. Their sneakers are well-considered and generally feature a cheeky little arrow on the side. Apparel and sneaker-line Bape (a bathing ape) is responsible for some of the most sought after sneakers on the market. A bit flashy for my tastes, Bapes are reminiscent of AF1's in brightly colored glossy leather, but with a tailed star rather than a swoosh. They are shrewdly marketed and always released in extremely limited numbers.

This is probably why their Marvel comics-inspired kicks, including colorways designed after the Incredible Hulk, Captain America and the Human Torch are so goddamn pricey (there is a certain Psi U who has several -- he should probably watch his neck).

Oh, god, so much more to say. Quick shout-out to the NB 1500s -- the incredible colorways of which have caused me to completely rethink my stance on New Balance.

Also watch for the latest Marc Jacobs x Vans designs, which have some gorgeous patterns (and some sick patent leather, Velcro and various lush materials).

I'll end with a word to the girlies: generally the worthwhile kicks start at size 7 (8.5 women's), 6 if you are lucky. I've gotten used to it even though I wear a size 7.5 in women's.

So start saving your quarters.