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The Dartmouth
April 25, 2024 | Latest Issue
The Dartmouth

The DM Manual of Style: Grunge

In 1992, Marc Jacobs, then a young and largely unknown designer for Perry Ellis, shocked the fashion world with his landmark Grunge collection, a witty tribute to the youth culture of Seattle's emergent music scene. Encapsulating the "throwaway attitude of rock and roll," the clothes were luxe versions of the trend's staples: oversize flannel shirts, ratty sweaters, chaotic layering, long skirts in dark colors and crocheted skullcaps worn over lank unwashed hair.

The groundbreaking collection ignited a frenzy, catapulting Jacobs into stardom and bringing Generation X's distinctly anti-fashion stance into the mainstream. Now, 16 years later, after seasons of body-conscious, flashy, and uncomfortably slick glamour, grunge is experiencing a revival, drawing inspiration equally from punks and lumberjacks. From the usual tomboy suspects -- Mary Kate Olsen and Behati Prinsloo in vintage floral baby doll dresses -- to the less obvious -- see super-prim wife of Xenu Katie Holmes channeling Eddie Vedder in baggy Current/Elliot Boyfriend jeans -- tastemakers of all stripes are experiencing fashion Nirvana and adopting looks that would make Kurt Cobain proud.

With its unisex, DIY aesthetic, grunge is versatile, inexpensive and, most importantly, accessible. Because of the trend's outdoorsy roots, you don't have to travel far from campus to take the grunge plunge -- there's no better place to stock up on essentials than the Upper Valley. Dan and Whit's in Norwich is a great source for the requisite oversize plaid shirts while Salvation Army stores (there's one in West Leb) have an endless selection of perfectly worn-in T-shirts and tattered cardigans that capture the moody style that was emblematic of the 1990s. Thrift stores in general are the place to search for pieces that are authentically tattered and grungy (Cobain shopped almost exclusively secondhand). Just be sure to wash your purchases before wearing, so you don't actually, y'know, smell like teen spirit.

Another easy way to get the look? Raid your middle school wardrobe. The most impressive outfit I've seen in a long time was a friend's effortlessly cool ensemble -- a floral minidress from the fifth grade paired with a long belted sweater, thick black tights and ballet flats. Combining early '90s rock 'n' roll with a thoroughly modern polish, it was reminiscent of early Kate Moss at a Stone Roses show. Dig through your closet; a couple of slight alterations and that slip dress you've owned since Clarissa Explained It All will be fresh and current in 2008.

For those who like their clothes brand spanking new but still crave the ease of grunge wear, pick up some finishing touches online at Topshop's recently launched U.S. web site. The cheap, chic British chain's "Unique" label is filled with contemporary classics such as loose-fitting oxfords, slubby fisherman sweaters and lace-up ankle boots, which toe the line between bad ass and cozy. The collection's oversize khaki wool Army jacket-blazer hybrid with wide lapels is the epitome of sophisticated insouciance: With its open front and slouchy fit, it's practically begging for an Alice in Chains pin and a copy of Sassy Magazine tucked underarm.

Not only is grunge a wallet-friendly trend, it also offers the benefit of being extremely practical. With the term in full swing, midterms upon us, various epidemics transforming the campus into a walking petri dish of germs and snow already falling, grunge's baggy, loose silhouettes are an ideal way to handle the stress of the crunch period with warmth, comfort and style. Most of us will be sporting grunge hallmarks such as minimal makeup and unkempt hair as we pull all-nighters in Novak, so why not claim it in the name of fashion? If you're going to be sloppy, skip the sweatpants and instead cocoon yourself in piles of mismatching layers. Turn up the volume on "About a Girl" and your latent teenage angst, and come as you are in your most comfortable, battered clothing. You'll stay warm and look cool. What more could you ask for?

Stefanie is a staff writer for The Mirror.


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