Forbes blogger serves up praise for Morano Gelato

By Jay Webster, The Dartmouth Staff | 7/14/11 11:23am

Hanover might not have the best Venet­ian glass or Ital­ian silk shops in the coun­try (or any at all), but the quaint col­lege town does have “the best gelato in Amer­ica” at the re­cently opened Morano Gelato, ac­cord­ing to Forbes blog­ger Larry Olm­sted.

The self-de­clared “gelato freak” dis­cov­ered the Main Street gela­te­ria by chance, he wrote on his blog, say­ing he has been dis­ap­pointed by Amer­i­can of­fer­ings of the Ital­ian dessert in his trav­els around the coun­try. Even the Upper West Side’s Grom, a gelato shop hyped by The New York Times, did not suit his fancy, he said.

Mor­gan Morano, the young en­tre­pre­neur and chef be­hind the gela­te­ria, dis­agreed with Olm­sted, say­ing her gelato is “not nec­es­sar­ily the best” and that she is “con­stantly ex­per­i­ment­ing” with the prod­uct.

“I feel I have a lot of room to grow and im­prove,” she said, in spite of Olm­sted’s in­sis­tence that she has per­fected the Ital­ian in­dul­gence.

She and Olm­sted do agree on one point, how­ever: “Un­for­tu­nately in Amer­ica, a lot of peo­ple are ru­in­ing gelato,” she said. “They don’t re­ally care —they’re just try­ing to profit.”

Olm­sted’s ar­ti­cle has been “great ex­po­sure” for the busi­ness, Morano said. But on the other hand, she is now “ner­vous” be­cause her es­tab­lish­ment is open to food crit­ics on a na­tional level, she said.

Morano re­ceived her for­mal culi­nary train­ing in New York City and Flo­rence, but also gained valu­able ex­pe­ri­ence work­ing in her fa­ther’s restau­rant in Long Is­land, she said.

Morano makes the gelato fresh each morn­ing is pro­duced in the Si­cil­ian tra­di­tion, which means the base is “pri­mar­ily water, so it’s even health­ier for you,” Morano said, adding that “es­sen­tially, it’s the health­i­est ver­sion of gelato you can pos­si­bly find.”

The best in Amer­ica and also a guilt-free treat: this is cer­tainly a rare find!

Al­though it might seem a bit ob­scure that Morano chose to set up shop in the Upper Val­ley, her fam­ily has a con­nec­tion to Hanover and to Dart­mouth, she said. Her mother, Lyn Morano Lord ’95 MALS ’98, cur­rently teaches at Kim­ball Union Acad­emy in Meri­den, N.H., and Mor­gan Morano her­self lived in the town for five years, she said.

“Set­ting up my busi­ness here was more a per­sonal choice, as well as for the busi­ness, be­cause I was tired of New York City,” Morano said. “There was also a void of in­ter­na­tional foods [in Hanover], and I thought a gelato restau­rant would work well up here.”

Morano de­scribed the ven­ture as “com­pletely her own busi­ness,” though she re­ceived some help from her fam­ily.

“It’s not re­ally a fam­ily busi­ness, but I love hav­ing my fam­ily around,” Morano said in an in­ter­view with The Dart­mouth. “My brother’s my man­ager until Au­gust, and I also have my lit­tle sis­ter help­ing me.”

Jor­dan and Ali Morano, the en­tre­pre­neur’s brother and sis­ter, are fre­quent pres­ences at Morano Gelato.

Morano’s culi­nary as­pi­ra­tions saw their hum­ble be­gin­nings at the weekly farmer’s mar­ket, she said. Prior to own­ing her own busi­ness, Morano of­fered two fla­vors each week at the mar­ket to “in­tro­duce the prod­uct,” she said.

While her gelato has been con­sis­tently well-re­ceived by her cus­tomers, she was “very sur­prised” about the Forbes blog post, she said.

“To be hon­est, I’m a very low-key per­son,” Morano said. “I chose a ca­reer in kitchens be­cause I like to be be­hind the scenes.”


Jay Webster, The Dartmouth Staff