Contrary to popular belief, the tour buses to the Green are not brimming with crowds eager to ogle the most selective freshman class in Dartmouth history. Closer speculation will reveal that the charter coaches carry the telltale sign of fall: old people.
Hanover's untimely high temperatures are no boon to the hundreds of card-carrying AARP members who make the annual pilgrimage to the Upper Valley. Their determined search for the Granite and Green States' spectacular foliage awakened a similar stirring of our own. We craved a seasonal dining spot with a view. And for this, we headed out of town.
After a scenic half hour drive north, we stumbled upon the portrait of autumnal bliss in the town of Bradford, Vt. Cue the waterfalls.
No, really.
Adjacent to the historic Bradford Mill, which is mounted above a formidable cascade of the local Waits River, the Perfect Pear Cafe glints invitingly from its mountainside perch. Chef and proprieter Adam Coulter opened the restaurant a few years ago after serving tenure at the Norwich Inn. An associate in the Vermont Fresh network, Chef Coulter creates menus that rely on local producers and adapt to seasonal variations.
At first glance, the Cafe upheld its name with pride. It seemed perfect: polished wooden floors, exposed beams, local stone accents and sleek linens. The brown paper mounted atop each table exuded easy elegance, while large picture windows boasted views of the White Mountains that were nothing short of charming.
The menu, too, seemed to be a rare treat, with offerings that ranged from Vermont cheddar burgers to escargot. Prices followed a similar gamut.
The kitchen, however, was not quite up to handle the diverse demands; oddly enough there was a run on snails and none were to be had for our party. Another group was denied one of the night's special (though not house-made) raviolis.
We were placated by a toasty bread basket, plucked straight from the oven and served warm at the table with an accompanying zesty rosemary-infused roasted red pepper dipping sauce. Unfortunately, the light teaser was no match for the wait that lay ahead.
Our appetizers -- a house salad, corn chowder and New England crab cakes -- arrived beautifully presented, but nearly 45 minutes after we had ordered them. Initial bites, however, diffused any discontent.
The house salad towered above the rest of the appetizers. Mounted high, brimming with mixed greens, seasonal vegetables and homemade croutons, the salad was accomopanied by a rich yet still delicate maple balsamic vinaigrette. Neither too heavy nor too thin, the corn chowder was emboldened by smoky red peppers.
The table favorite, the New England crab cakes, were artfully placed next to a refreshing pairing of basil marinated coarsely chopped watermelon. The fruit's sweet acidity provided the perfect accent to draw out and complement the subtly seasoned fish.
The real reward was in the sauce, however. The cake and the watermelon chutney were cradled in a creamy, sweet red pepper tartar sauce and accompanied by a smattering of rosemary-infused roasted red pepper oil and pesto for effect.
On to entrees: Our group dove into ravioli dishes that sought to please a variety of palates. The night's special butternut squash ravioli was bathed in a gorgonzola and maple sauce that perfectly harmonized with the accompanying apple slices, but was far too sweet for a main course. A more traditional choice, the proscuitto and asparagus ravioli was served in pink sauce and topped with artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes. The small option serving was nonetheless sating and even welcomed sharing after our appetizers.
For pub fare, we tried the portabella mushroom sandwich which leapt out of any-other-sandwich obscurity with a chunky olive tapenade.
For dessert, we could not turn down the pumpkin pie with homemade whipped cream. The bread pudding, we learned later, is the house specialty, but we were far too full to sample more than one dessert.
Check Please! Good things come to those who wait! The Perfect Pear Cafe is the perfect excuse for an afternoon or evening of conversation over aptly prepared seasonal food. Take in the leaves and the flavor of all over hearty salads, interesting pastas and not-too-heavy desserts.
