'Round the Girdled Earth: Leisure time in Ollanta

By John D'Antonio, Guest Columnist | 2/21/13 3:00am

On one hike to an Incan fort known as Puma Marca, our trail had been washed out due to heavy rainfall, and we ended up hiking for 15 minutes up a stream, only to reach another river and waterfall. There were some rocks to walk across to the other side, but some of them were submerged because of the excess rainwater. As we debated whether it would be worth the risk of falling down a raging river and waterfall, one of the volunteers just went for it, and next thing we knew she was on the other side. It was pretty questionable, but since one of our volunteers had already made it we knew it was technically possible, and we all crossed safely, although I’m still not sure how. It reminded me of forging a river in The Oregon Trail, except in real life.

During the weekends, Awamaki workers and volunteers generally go out together to one of the three bars in town, where we account for approximately 95% of the customers. Except for my host brother, who is always out with us, Peruvians here generally do not go out to bars, and instead buy beer from stores in town and drink in the street. One thing Peruvians do like to do, however, is go clubbing, and I go every few weeks with my host brothers and cousins. As a “gringo” (Spanish slang for a foreigner, usually an American) at a club here, it’s likely I would get punched or attacked if I were alone or with other gringos, but being with my host family keeps me safe, and they gladly protect me. I’m starting to suspect a few of them really enjoy fighting.

This past week, life in Ollantaytambo and the Sacred Valley has changed drastically, however. Devastating floods have wiped out houses, crops, roads and bridges all across the region of Cusco. Houses are generally made of adobe or clay, and collapse or become incredibly dangerous during floods, so people have been forced to abandon their homes in many towns. Ollantaytambo has been relatively lucky, avoiding loss except for two or three homes, but the surrounding towns are currently in despair. With destroyed crops, collapsed homes and washed out bridges and roads, it has been incredibly difficult for people to find food or shelter, and aid has been difficult to reach many towns because of their lack of accessibility. It’s incredibly sad to witness, and a lot of the damage reminds me of the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, except resources such as flood insurance and family savings don’t exist.

Awamaki and the other local NGOs in Ollantaytambo have been attempting to bring aid, hiking food and medical supplies out to some of the towns severely damaged, but with little money to spare, it has been difficult. February is also only the beginning of the rainy season here, so while this flooding is the worst some people have ever seen here, it’s supposed to get worse before it gets better, and the villages can’t rebuild until April when it’ll be dry again. The government is doing all it can, and people are helping wherever possible, but there is still a lot to do.


John D'Antonio, Guest Columnist