'Round the Girdled Earth: A Guide to London
After years of British period pieces (can you say Atonement (2007)?) and a mildly obsessive relationship with English breakfast tea, last fall I finally journeyed across the Atlantic to experience the city of London firsthand. I was supposedly there for the history foreign study program but, in reality, I was just there to swoon at each and every accent. My first hours in the United Kingdom were characterized by persistent hot flashing as I attempted to comprehend the world around me and simultaneously reenact every scene from Love Actually (2003).
After I managed to shed my middle-aged woman habits, I began to realize exactly how much the land of Adele had to offer. Aside from streets filled with Burberry models, London has a wealth of cultural and gastronomic attractions. The obvious touristy sights are mind-blowing (Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the National Gallery and the British Museum) but this guide is meant to detail the places I found that are equally incredible but perhaps less well-known.
General Information
Secondly, London’s streets make no sense. Almost nothing was planned out or laid on a grid à la New York City, so make sure you have a map on you if you want to avoid getting lost in a labyrinth of alleyways. Lastly, I love London but Mother Nature doesn’t — it rains ALL THE TIME. Keep an umbrella on you 24/7 or risk facing the watery wrath of the British Isles.
Places – parentheses indicate the nearest tube station
1. Borough Market (London Bridge)
2. Sir John Soane Museum (Holborn)
The house of a well-known English architect, this museum is one of London’s best hidden gems. Plan on going on the first Tuesday night of the month, when the museum is lit exclusively by candlelight. The line can be outrageously long (I waited for close to two hours) but the neoclassical eclecticism of the house truly lives up the hype. Don’t miss the mirror-laden Breakfast Room and miniature gallery, filled with well-known William Hogarth originals.
3. Portobello Road Market (Notting Hill Gate)
Located in Notting Hill, the Portobello Road Market is a classic street market. Depending on the day, it contains over two miles of antiques and clothing. Go here mostly to find incredibly intact second-hand Barbour jackets and assorted trendy English products. Beat the crowds by getting to the market no later than 10 a.m.
4. The Victoria and Albert Museum (South Kensington)
Museums in London are generally incredible, but this is easily one of the best. It holds treasures collected during the glory days of the British Empire, all housed in an enormous, gorgeous Victorian building. It’s primarily a museum of the decorative arts, but contains so much more. The Sculpture Hall is bursting with busts by Rodin, and the Cast Courts house life size replicas of everything from Michelangelo’s David to Trajan’s Column. My jaw dropped when I saw the huge Raphael Cartoons, enormous designs for tapestries intended to hang in the Sistine Chapel.
Honorable Mentions: St. Christopher’s Place, Kew Gardens, The Photographer’s Gallery, Somerset House, The Courtauld Gallery, The Wallace Collection, The Saatchi Gallery.
Food and Drink
1. Diwana Bhel Poori Restaurant (Warren Street or Euston Square)
2. The Regency Café (Pimlico)
You can’t get much more legit than the Regency. This classic no-frills diner pumps out mouthwatering full English breakfasts with alarming speed and perfection. You have to order before you can even sit and then nervously pray that a seat will open up before your food is done, but I personally like my eggs with a side of adrenaline.
3. Yumchaa (several locations)
While I can’t take credit for discovering this gift from the almighty tea gods, I couldn’t recommend it more. England — and by default London — is all about tea, but this café is especially all over that business. Savor homemade blends of loose-leaf tea (I recommend the rhubarb-infused Blueberry Hill) while taking in the hipster-chic ambience of the place.
4. The Green Man, 26 Riding Housing Street (Goodge Street)
London has a huge pub scene that generally begins immediately after the working day ends at 5 p.m. (and you thought Dartmouth was ragey). This particular pub is by far one of the best, primarily because of its divine cider. Try the delicious, and deceivingly potent, Green Man Special for a classic London pub experience.
5. Proud Camden (Chalk Farm)
For some unknown reason, I spontaneously joined the Cross Country team at the university I was studying at in London. I frequently contemplated intentionally tripping myself in order to end my misery during the two 10Ks I hobbled through, but it was all worth it for the casual clubbing that immediately followed the races. Proud Camden was unquestionably one of my favorite venues — the club is inside old horse stables that you can rent out for a group of friends before making your way to the dance floor. If you can get over images of Seabiscuit and/or Black Beauty then you’ll have a blast for sure!
Honorable Mention: Vincent Rooms, Newman Arms, Addis, Lantana.
And with that, my future Londoners, this quick guide comes to an end. Cheers and best of luck navigating the Tube!