Like many Dartmouth students, Nicolle Allen ’16 came to the College with a major already in mind. Despite her interest in English and biology, she realized this was not the path for her after beginning a work-study in the College’s costume shop for the theater department. Backstage, Allen helped actors make their speedy changes.
“It was really hard,” Allen said. “It took a lot of work, but it was really enjoyable.”
Since that first performance, Allen has become a regular face among the crew for the department’s termly shows. With her interest in fashion and sewing, she eventually changed her major to theater with a focus on costume design. Most recently, she co-designed the costumes for “Chicago,” the winter term mainstage production performed this past February.
When designing shows, Allen said she begins the costuming process by reading the play before brainstorming and creating sketches. After making general ideas for costumes, she conducts more research into the main characters’ stories and their personalities. While the ensemble’s costumes are less specific, Allen said she likes the main actors’ costumes to accurately represent their characters.
During this lengthy period, Allen constantly interacts with the director and other designers to ensure everything works together. For “Chicago,” Allen co-designed with theater professor Laurie Churba, who specializes in costume design. Churba said the decision to name Allen co-designer for a mainstage show is rare because professors are usually the sole designers. However, due to firm support of Churba and Allen’s experience, the department agreed she was a good choice.
Normally, if Allen were designing a student show, Churba would guide her through the process as a mentor without telling her what to do. On “Chicago,” a mainstage production, Allen and Churba collaborated with one another throughout the process.
“I keep her focused and on track, but I don’t give her any answers,” Churba said.
Anna Winter, the costume shop’s cutter and draper, said Churba and Allen had very different visions for the costumes. Churba preferred a modern style whereas Allen preferred a period style, resulting in a blended design.
“It was very much about trying to bridge the gap between the ’20s and modern times,” Allen said.
Allen and Churba drew inspiration from modern figures such as the Kardashians and Nicki Minaj, who represent what Allen called “plastic culture,” a theme that is frequently found in “Chicago” through its focus on glamour and show business.
Once the costume ideas were in place, Allen looked through the shop’s stock for pieces that matched their design, but realized the costumes that were characteristic of the ’20s needed to be created. Since the physical fit of the costumes is important for Allen, she said she immediately reached out to the actors after the cast list was released to get their measurements taken. Afterwards, the costume team began harnessing their creative magic. Winter created a mockup of the costume out of muslin, a type of basic, untreated cotton. She then made alterations to that mockup. Once finished, she created the actual costume and made any final alterations.
Allen said being able to co-design with a professor was a great experience for her because it was a more professional environment. However, she said she also enjoys working on student shows because it allows her more crazy, creative freedom.
Fellow theater major Kyla Mermejo-Varga ’17 served as the stage manager for “Chicago” and said Allen is extremely involved with the department.
“She would always be [backstage during shows and at rehearsals],” Mermejo-Varga said.
Although Allen has taken some acting classes to fulfill requirements for her major, she said she prefers to work backstage with the costumes.
Jennifer Bilbo, the costume shop manager, said Allen was a great student from the start.
“She came in with a little sewing experience and a lot of enthusiasm for costumes,” Bilbo said. “Nicolle is one of our few costume students and she shows such promise.”
As Allen developed as a student and designer, her style evolved. Now, she has been able to start envisioning a future that includes costuming.
“It’s been great watching her come in with this strong interest, then see it develop into the beginnings of her career path,” Bilbo said.
Allen plans to continue to work on costumes during her final term at Dartmouth, including her senior thesis, currently titled “Unnamed Play,” which will be available to view from April 22 to 24.
Quick quotes:
Favorite food: Grilled cheese
Best place on campus: The Hopkins Center
Favorite book: “We Have Always Lived in the Castle” (1962)
