Quick! What do a stump-toed ghecki, yards of astroturf and a past-its-Halloween prime princess costume all have in common? Why, West Lebanon of course! The Upper Valley's dizzying, cure-all one-stop shop can satiate any and all consumer desires. Although, the West Leb strip is not exactly overburdened with an equally ample array of fine dining selections, we remained convinced that it couldn't possibly fail us in our search for some solid grub.
The name alone was enough to draw us over to Men at Wok. Tucked away in a smaller retail park, Men at Wok's drab facade almost seems out of place so near the shinier fast-food staples. Once inside, the sparse furnishings and sterile atmosphere of the West Leb establishment simultaneously reassured and depressed our table of diners.
Sustainability is not Men at Wok's strong point. Paper menus, plastic utensils and Styrofoam plates are ubiqitous should you decide to take out or sit-in. However, judging by the sweeping size of the kitchen in relation to the more meager dining area, priority lies in the preparation. We suggest that you grab your meal on the go considering that your car probably offers a livelier and more comfortable ambiance (even without the free coffee).
Good Chinese food should not be exclusive to Chinatown. Bad Chinese food should always come with warning labels like "All-day, All-You-Can-Eat $1.99 Buffet." Men at Wok offers neither.
The restaurant's delivery, on the other hand, cannot be faulted. Our order arrived at the table within 9 minutes, a testimonial to Men at Wok's advertised "Chinese fast food" claim. The casual but attentive staff was even generous enough to bring out our selections in stages.
Appetizers often go under-appreciated at the lunch hour. Men at Wok's appetizer specials encourage social sharing. The spring rolls are lightly fried -- the perfect vehicle for the restaurant's sweet and sour sauce, another highlight (be sure to ask for it!).
The sweet and sour soup disappointed, despite a perfect temperature and cheerful smattering of scallions. A combination of tofu and vegetables with a subtle kick, the soup starter emerged almost muddy and too sour. Its thoughtful accompaniment, a plate of crispy fried noodles, was far more popular than the soup itself.
Our entrees garnered neither praise nor complaint. Dripping in sweet, self-proclaimed "exotic sesame sauce," the crispy sesame chicken comes large enough to share and is unremarkable, but nonetheless a strong standard for group dining. The next-day test was applied to this dish, and after spending the day subject to a claustrophobic mini-fridge, the chicken still maintained its filling flavor.
A kung pao bean curd came without the promised spiciness and an odd assortment of previously canned peanuts. The dish actually benefited from an overnight marinade, which rendered the originally ordinary and even tough tofu increasingly rich and tender.
Men at Wok's noodle selections are by far the high point. The vegetable lo mein stood out among our selections. Authentic noodles balanced nicely with vegetables and an almost smoky sauce. The beef chow foon offered a dense array of sumptuous egg noodles and meat in a light brown sauce.
Men at Wok neither delighted or distressed our stomachs, but our wallets came out nearly as thick as when we walked through the door. All-day combination platters are priced reasonably from five to seven dollars and come with pork fried rice and an appetizer. With 50 different choices, there's something for everyone. The whole menu is priced for change counters, and with two sizes for entrees, ordering for your appetite has its perks.
Check, Please! Wok, don't run, for pleasant prices and leftover-worthy portions. While they don't deliver, Men at Wok's speedy kitchen will get you your take-out quick. Though we will continue our search for Chinese food good enough to remind us of what life is like, for now we admit that the Orient's large menu and location are enough to keep us here in Hanover.